Golfing is the result of a wave that comes to the shore or shore and is losing its energy. This can be accompanied by peeling and golfing. Golf course and coast or shore
When a wave caused by wind, shipping or an earthquake (tsunami) approaches the shore or coast, the depth of the water will decrease below the wave. This can be abrupt because the wave rises against a rock or reef or gradually because the wave rises against a slope. The effect on the shore or shore of this raising of a wave depends on the depth of the water and the length of the wave. If a wave breaks, then it will turn and energy will be released by friction with the bottom and the water side. Breaking the wave determines the degree of wave beat. The sooner the wave breaks, the less the effect of the wave stroke on the actual shore. The front bank (the bottom under water just before the shore) captures the energy and thus the wave (or at least part of it). At a rock or reef the wave retains its energy and will only be released at the rock or reef. Breaking a wave
Breaking a wave occurs when the height exceeds 1 / 7th of the length. A wave of 7 meters long can never exceed 1 meter. If a wave reaches a shallow depth, the energy will absorb itself. The wave will thus be stimulated to break. For a long foreland with a small rate of increase, the effect of waves on the dike or sea water will thus be minimal while in a cliff right at sea this effect will be maximum.
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